Sunday, March 30, 2008

Major news in Iqaluit. I've decided to let my hair grow.

And that's about the biggest thing in my life at the moment. I know there hasn't been much on the blog the past month on Iqaluit or life in the North, but I haven't really been up to much that would be of interest to anyone.

Spring is definitely in the air, the temps are hovering around -20 most days and the sun is strong enough to actually warm up the skin and snow. The increased daylight has brightened everyones mood and there are more smiling faces around the town.

The hills are becoming less white as the snow melts and my parka is only making appearances late at night when I'm driving friends home and I'm too lazy to warm up the truck.

With the arrival of Spring I am doing some house cleaning...tossing out food with dates that are more than a bit questionable, discarding some of those things that I brought North but have not used in three years. Yeah, that's a good sign you don't really need something...if you haven't used it in over a year...toss it. I have also discovered that I have enough pasta in my cupboards to feed the whole building for about a month and oatmeal for everyone for breakfast. The only thing I am not willing to wittle down is my shoe collection. :)

Along with Spring cleaning comes Spring Fever...and I fear if I do not get a trip out soon...I may go postal. It looks like a brief trip to Vancouver the first of May, but it seems so very far away. I need to get some distance from private events going on in my life, and I need to just sit somewhere and think. I think Vancouver will be great...warm and very spring like. What I would love to do is run off to Boston for a weekend, but that isn't going to happen...unless someone wants to send me a ticket. Anyone???

Monday, March 24, 2008

final am

breakfast by myself listening to chatter of other guests. One table of Indians not happy with the "Indian tea" requests real masala tea and gets it--lucky.

So, what have I learned this trip? What am I taking back from India? The knowledge that I need to do more for those in need back home. Don't misread that statement. What I have been involved with in India is amazing and as soon as I can save up enough money I will go again. But I will ponder on the trip home how I can do more.

I work for a non-profit group that helps beneficiaries with opportunities to go to school for short periods of time to find better positions of employment and hopefully more self esteem. I sit on two boards -- one that gives a hand up to people one house at a time the other encourages youth to learn valuable skills in a fun way. Maybe it is simple [And then the entry ends. I am still trying to decide how I can do more for those in need here in Canada, specifically here in Nunavut, I'm sure that when the right opportunity presents itself, I'll know.]

And the final entry....

I'm back in Frankfurt. After a long flight from Chennai (almost 10 hours) I'm tired. I slept most of the flight but my body is confused. I want to sleep, I want to eat--I really want a change of clothes and a shower.

Those from the GV team who were/are leaving India today have various theories on the best way to beat jet lag. I prefer to sleep the entire flgiht if possible and then go to bed at the 'normal' time when I reach my destination. Other will try and reset on the plane - but frankly I can't keep myself awake or entertained for these long hauls...and so I sleep.

My plans to do a quick explore [of Frankfurt] are not forgotten--simply postponed indefinitely. This morning flying in it seemed more hassle to get euros, figure out the trains during rush hour and go through immigration twice.

Perhaps my experiences in Chennai had something to do with that. The airport was a tad confusing and one of the people in the group I was with is a green horn to travel. I said be agressive--push your way through as tight to N's back as you can get. She didn't and it held everyone up. I had no trouble checking in and then budded (sp) into the immigration line. I'm glad I did--once past the checkpoint it was still a 2 hour wait to see a customs person--and then up to security. The group I was with arrived a 1/2 hour laster--while their flight was being given last call so the good byes were short. My flight boarded 5 minutes later.

It is almost 10am Germany time and I have an 8 hour flgith ahead of me. Sigh. I'm going to try and stay awake till my flight and then watch a movie (if possible) till I fall asleep.

I'm still digesting India.

And that ends the India diary. There was so much more that happened and that I experienced. I need to write an entry on the key ceremony that I attended...but in the meantime.


Would I do it again? Absolutely. I've already been on the Habitat site looking for trips.

Was it everything I had hoped it would be? YES and so much more. The emotions I felt during my trip were hard to explain. I made so many great friends in such a short period of time and all my emotions were on high alert during the trip.

Did I come back a changed person? I don't know. I guess that is up to you to decide. Everywhere we go, everything we do leaves an impression on us. I was more concerned with leaving a good impression on the people of India of Canadians than of changing my outlook on life. It is always a tragedy when someone travels abroad and leaves negative impressions of Canada.

Did I get sick? Yes, but I got sick in Toronto...and then again in PEI...the anti-malaria pills took a major toll on me. Once the 'issues' from TO stopped I had nightmares...really bad, scary ones that stayed with me well into my days...they stopped and the 'issues' started up again.....yep, nothing like looking forward to an 8 or 10 hour plane ride and wondering how far your seat is from the bathroom. I didn't get sick from India.

How was the food? Amazing, terrific and fantastic. I love Indian food...and still do. I took myself off Indian when I first arrived back in Canada...but I'm back on it now. And am hoping to figure out how to make masala tea from scratch.

Tired...must sleep. Enjoy the entry below and the pics.
from the journal...

Thursday - massage day.

Had an ayurvedic (?sp) massage today. wow. my first massage ever so nothing to compare it to, but very relaxing. covered in oil. no towel. reflexology as well.

walked along promenade now sitting at Promenade Hotel waiting for my masala tea. View looks onto a small court yardwith a fountain and the Bay of Bengal is in the near distance. Remains of an old pier. Two men in small boats--kayaks of sorts--fishing. Very calm. Very relaxed.

Am constantly amazed as are many members of the team as to how hard it is to get a chai masala. Have given up at Mass Hotel [where we stayed] and just order Indian tea. Which is basically black tea with milk and some sugar already added. I take mine with two additional lumps.

My fav drink--Fresh Lime Soda--Sweet. When done properly it comes in three containers one with fresh lime juice, one with sugar syruip and one with carbonated water. You add your own amounts of each--refreshing. [During our Habitat orientation the first night we were told to not drink the water, etc and fresh lime soda was one of the items on the list...I had been drinking it since my arrival in India so figured I'd keep going. Basically the thought is that the sugar water may not have been properly boiled to kill off any bugs.My theme for the trip...if it doesn't kill me it will only make me stronger.]

My plan for today is no plan at all. Have my tea, wander the streets and when I get tired back to the hotel to rest then wander again. I'm doing lunch on my own away from the group. supper...not sure. It's V day and I'd rather not be the only single at the restaurant so maybe room service.

I have purchased all the musts and think I have run out of room in my bags--so may have issues getting it all home. [It was indeed tight. I arrived with two back packs and went home with two back backs.]

tea break over--it's time to wander!

I have no idea what time it is. I can't have been wandering for that long, but I am hot and hungry. I'm back at one of the restaurants the team ate at before. They have good soda! I'm having a comfort food...butter chicken..something I eat a lot of in Nunavut. I'm having a great time wandering and keep forgetting to take photos. I found silk for 400 rupees a metre ($10 CDN) I'm tempted but I think I'll just stick with the one pillow case I bought. over priced by Indian standards, but it will look nice on my bed. I was blessed by an elephant this am. Maybe it will bring me good luck...ok, actually my sunglasses were blessed...but still.















Saturday, March 22, 2008

To quote my father "it's a lizard!"

Also known as a blizzard. It was bound to happen...in fact I was waiting all week for it. When the temp warms up over 10 degrees in less than 24 hours you know that there is going to be bad weather attached. While it has spoiled some of my weekend plans...namely getting out of my house, it did not spoil brunch today.

The invite came earlier in the week and even 0.4 km visibility couldn't stop us from getting together. The girls headed out and picked me up...we headed to the store to pick up last minute supplies and up the road we went. It was a ton of fun and the amount of food cooked and eaten was unreal.

The drive back was tricky, the plows had been off the road for hours and the drifts in places were severe. And the windshield kept fogging up...so we put all the windows down, stuck out our heads and laughed the whole way. I got dropped off well in front of my building and hiked through snow banks to get inside...the whole time thinking...what a great way to spend a storm day.

Thanks Ladies! Let's do it again soon.

Friday, March 21, 2008

Straight from the Diary...
Day 7 build day 2

pass cement

Nehru St
roof top restaurant

Day 8

dig trenches--move cement
prommanade
wander French area
eat yummy sweets
cross between fudge and shortbread

Day 9 & 10 Thursday/Friday
build day 4 and 5

-moving bricks & cement

Friday night pizza in French Quarter in real clay oven
yummy.

Saturday and Sunday February 9/10
tours of temples and monuments
lunch Sunday at resort, private buffet under coconut trees
-A. drives tuktuk
-Sunday mailed postcards from resort

Monday
back at the build site
took photos with Nunavut flag
Ali's bday she's going to help cook our supper in the hotel kitchen
-we are all getting dressed up!
-wore my sari--lots of compliments, had an Indian lady help me fix it--need shoes!
-had another dream last night--C. asked if it was another nightmare I said she should decide--Britany Spears was in it--we both agreed--nightmare.

So basically, we shifted a lot of cement and bricks at the build site. I was so exhausted every night that by the time I got to bed I wrote two lines and fell asleep. I've included a few pics that might lend themselves to a better explaination.


These two monkeys had stolen someones lunch bag and were having themselves a picnic.


At the build site.


The hard work continues.


J's arm taken at night while A. drives the tuk tuk.


Local help at the build site.


Team Canada.


A. cooking up a storm in the kitchen. It was YUMMY!


I'm not a good Indian woman...so I constantly need my sari fixed...this lovely woman stopped to help me out.


Me in my full sari attire.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

18:00 Light Snow -18
17:00 Light Snow -19
16:00 Light Snow -21
15:00 Light Snow -21
14:00 Light Snow -22
13:00 Light Snow -24
12:00 Light Snow -25
11:00 Light Snow -26
10:00 Light Snow -27
9:00 Light Snow -28
8:00 Cloudy -29
7:00 Cloudy -29
6:00 Mostly Cloudy -31
5:00 Clear -32


Enviro Canada is predicting -8 for tomorrow...I had my doubts, but the temp is clearly slowly working its way up the thermometer.

Sunday, March 16, 2008

I've updated stuff....you may want to scroll down and then read up.

Day 6 -- Build Day 1 (Taken straight from the journal)

We arrive at our build site and find homes in various stages of ready. Some just need finishing touches, others are just stakes in the ground. Our first bit of flexibility comes in our tour of the village and chance to meet the families has been indefinitely post-poned. There is a wedding in the village and almost everyone is there. The greeting party at the bus makes us all feel very happy to be there. We each receive a colourful flower lei, a dab of yellow and red on our faces. Smiles all around and off they go to the wedding.

I volunteer to dig holes. It's dirty back breaking work--but that's what I'm here for. The holes must be 3X3 and 4 feet deep. I need a chair to get out by the end.

We find Nehru St and all the sari shops.
eat supper at hotel and fall into bed exhausted


[End of entry]

What I didn't write down is that by noon on the first day we have lost two members of the team to heat exhaustion. It is well over 35 degrees, plus the humidity. We have been told to drink at least 6-8 litres a day and after the first twenty minutes I can understand why. I live in the North...I haven't seen +20 since I was out last summer...the heat is too much for me. I manage to dig one hole....the twenty something fit as a fiddle male manages 2 1/2...I'm barely hanging in when I finish my first...it isn't the work. I felt like I could do more shovelling, it is the heat that is getting to me. I wonder how long it will take me to adjust.

It is a red brick build. We will be digging holes for the corner posts, pouring cement, laying bricks, moving bricks, moving sand and generally giving free labour to the site.

During the build we will end up working 6 hours a day. Lunch is from 1-2pm during some of the worst heat. After the second day of building we ask to start earlier in the day when it is cooler (?!...if you can really call 32 cooler than 35 degrees). Our wish is granted and we start working at 8am and finish at 3pm. The last 15 minutes of each day are spent cleaning up the build site. It is a half hour drive to and from our hotel to the build site...the bus has no AC. My roomie and I get along fab and there is never a fight to the shower...we go by which one of us is dirtier.

And the end of day 1, showered and with a second wind...four of us set out to explore a bit. We just start walking and end up finding the shopping district in Pondicherry...Nehru Street. We go into one of the sari shops...it is five floors of madness, nothing like the one I was in in Jaipur. I hold back, I don't need another sari, but I do help the others look and talk to the sales clerks. No one is in the mood to buy...too tired from our first day of building but we make a mental note of the name, catch a tuk tuk and head back to the hotel to eat and then fall asleep.

My TO problems have finally left at this point and I'm happy...cause it would suck to have these issues at the build site.

My fav pic of the whole trip...the welcoming committee at the build site. Taken as I was standing on the bus steps waiting to get my lei.


My awesome roomie!!

Some of the team waiting to get started after our welcome...





My hole!

Believe it or not, but I am still alive. I was Chair of a symposium last week...and that took every waking second of my days and nights....don't even get me started about the so called co-ordinator.

It is a beautiful day here in Iqaluit, -25 with no wind. I went for a walk and layed down for a while to bask in the sun. Aahhh what a wonderful world I live in.

My camera died when I was in PEI on the way home from India...luckily I have been able to download all the pics, but I haven't been able to take any new ones...and it looks like I will need to purchase a new camera...so it might be a couple of months before I get to do that. If anyone has suggestions for a new one let me know. The last one I purchased was done in less than 20 minutes the night before I flew to Europe. I'd like to put a little more thought into the purchase this time around.

I am still trying to upload more pics from India, not sure why blogger hates me so much lately but here's what I have managed today...

typical living arrangments on side of highway

Temple just outside Agra

view of city



White marble inlaid with semi precious stones...glue is a well kept secret

What's wrong with this picture? I think it is the Pizza Hut...and I saw McDonald's too...don't ask what was on the menu...I didn't go in

Fort in Agra

Chicken and I get our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal

Exiting the fort in Agra

At the Taj Mahal



Temple at the Taj

Flower (obviously!)

The first mendi that I had done while on vacation

India gate in Delhi

Gift from my driver that I threw in the garbage

Monday, March 10, 2008

Day 5

Everyone in the Habitat group is up and on time. For those who hadn't met the day before intros are done and after breakfast we load up the bus and head to Pondicherry. About two hours in we stop for a few minutes to visit a village built by Habitat after the Tsunami. We are in awe and hope that we can have a similar effect in Pondicherry. PC is not the quaint seaside town the guidebooks describe. It is just as noisy and chaotic as every other town in India.

[And the entry ends....here's some reflection on that day not in the journal...]

Pics from the site we visited...



Everyone seems very eager to get started and I think some of the team would have ventured out to the build site today and happily started to sling mud so to speak. As it is we check in at the hotel, unpack, settle in and some of us do some wandering. The top of the list is to find an interenet cafe. It is Sunday and almost everything is closed so we wander the streets searching...not even sure which direction we are headed in...but walking none the less. Crossing the streets is an adventure and we feel that one or more of us will surely die just trying to do this simple thing. The traffic is coming the opposite way of what we are used to and there don't seem to be many rules of the road.

We will look back upon this excursion a few days later as easy and simple...the roads were basically empty compared to what we will experience.

The group meets before supper and we get an orientation to India and to the build site. I've actually read all the material they sent ahead of time so most of it isn't a surprise to me. But apparently not everyone did. One person keeps asking questions that seem pretty obvious to me...and after chatting with a number of other builders....obvious to them as well. Oh well. We are all too excited to be starting work in the morning that we just shrug our shoulders and dig into our supper.

Sunday, March 09, 2008

I have been trying all day to post pics it the Day 3 entry...but it isn't working. Here's the Day 4 entry...and I'll post the pics when the internet plays nice.

Day 4--Taj Mahal

[And then the page is blank. LOL....I will describe the day now...I remember most of it.]

It is my final day on my own...tonight I fly to Chennai to meet the Habitat team...the real reason for my trip to India. Today is also Taj Mahal day. I'm excited. This is the first wonder of the world I will get to see in person. As we drive to the Taj the guide explains a bit about what I am going to see and how things work there. Basically I will need to go through security to get in...seperate secuirty for men and women. The women go behind a screen and two women pat you down and send you on your way. We walk through the main gate and the guide is talking about the history of the Taj...I'm so busy taking photos I hardly hear a word he's saying. Then we pass through the next gate and there it is. I try very hard to pay attention but I just want to get close...close enough to touch it. Finally we are there and I am touching and feeling it. I'm in awe. I follow the guide around as he explains why it was built, how long it took, etc, etc. (if you want to know the details look it up) he finishes and I tell him to leave me. I just want to sit and absorb it. He goes. I spend the next hour by myself (not counting the 100's of other folks there) just looking and feeling. Basically it was built as a tomb/monument for one of the kings wives. My interpretation is a love story....others may disagree with me...I don't care...I was there, I felt it. I finally left...happy to have been there and content with my trip to India.

I could have flown home that night and felt the trip complete...but I didn't. What I did do was fly on to Chennai. Lots happened between the Taj and the airport...like getting my hands done with mendi and having the driver and guide cater to me and carry my purse...and have the waiter hold the menu for me and flip pages cause I couldn't move my hands...and then the fight over the marble place and the driver taking me back there and making me tell the guy AGAIN that I didn't want to buy anything and arguing with the store owner and the driver that indeed I do not want to buy the marble stuff. AAUUGGHH.

So finally I am at the airport in Delhi. My driver Herr gave me a gift before he dropped me off. I left it in the garbage at the airport...it was tacky and well, not for me. I did take a pic though and will post when I can. It is now 10pm and I arrive in Chennai. T and N meet me at the airport and we make our way back into town via the train. I didn't admit it till later...but I'm really glad they were able to meet me. After all the planning and writing that went into my itinerary for the trip....I failed to print off a copy for myself. So while I knew most of my stuff...I didn't know the name of the hotel in Chennai. I did know however that there were more Habitat folks getting in later so if all else failed I would have parked myself on a bench and held up a sign that said "Habitat" until someone came and got me.

The heat in Chennai was awesome. After almost freezing every night in Northern India it was a nice change to need AC in my room. I settle in and await the early morning arrival of my roomie.

Day 3

Herr and I set off for Agra. It's about 250km and will take us 6 hours. I am content to sit quietly and watch India go by Herr wants to chat--it doesn't work. We stop along with a busload of tourists to see a field of camels. Herr talks to the guy and we walk up to a baby camel. The camels all have one leg tied up--this is to stop them from running away. There are no fences--so I guess the herder does what he must. 20 reuppes later to thank the man for seeing the camels and we are back in the car.

I miss a lot of what Herr says--he talks pretty fast and while his English is ok--it isn't great. We arrive at ____ [I have no idea which temple this was and can't find it in my guide book] pick up the guide and head to _____. It's impressive but I'm anxious to get to _____ Fort [the one in Agra...at this point we are outside of town] so we move quickly.

Finally Agra. I check in, pop upstairs to the local coffee shop and grab a snack then we are off to the fort. It is huge. We only cover 20% as the other 80% is still in use by the army. I get my first sighting of the Taj. After the fort it is off to a marble store that I didn't want to go to. I'm not interested in the demo or the things they sell and I'm very vocal about it. It doesn't matter. I am finally able to leave the show room by telling him I'll think about it over night and have Herr come back in the am to pick it up. He has set aside a table top for me...I don't want it and have no intention of coming back...but he isn't taking no for an answer. He keeps talking about the price...he can get me a better price or find something else...I tell him I don't want any of it in my house (while trying not to insult him) and it goes back and forth for a while. I hate India at this moment. I don't want to negotiate for a price on something I don't even want to buy. Herr comes in and they chat and I am finally allowed to leave. Yes, allowed. I feel as though I must buy something. They make you feel guilty...here you are this rich Canadian and you won't buy any of their nice stuff. Oh yeah, everyone from Canada or the US or anywhere buy India is rich. And while we might make more money than they do...it is hard to explain that you aren't rich and that it took a lot of saving for this trip and no I can't afford to buy everything you show me...nor would I want to. It is getting very frustrating and I continually say...no more shopping.

I head off for a fabulous meal...and expensive...it was 750 rupees...which isn't really a lot. 1000 rupees is 25 CDN, but it is way more than I wanted to spend...oh well.

Saturday, March 08, 2008

Day 2--Taken directly from journal...not edited for sense.

Main Street in Jaipur...the Pink City


At the Amber Palace


Amber Palace


And more of the Amber Palace

Day 2

I'm up and ready to go almost on time. My order of plain toast takes a lot longer than I had anticipated. Toast in hand I met Herr and my guide for the day, lets callhim Mr Green after the wonderful green sweater he was wearing. He's all smiles and ready to go from the second I get in the car. Where are you from? Where is that? What do you do there? I think that on my next trip I will be from TO and work at Walmart--much easier to explain than my present local and job.

Away we go to Amber Forst which should be called Amber Palace as it was home to the Maharaja not soldiers. I proclaim that I want the elephant ride up the hill and will stand in que for hourse if necessary. The boys discuss and agree but say that if the line is too big they can arrange a ride somewhere else.

1/2 later I'm having a wonderful conversation with a lady from Columbia. A few minutes after that I am climbing onto the seat atop an elephant. I can't really describe the seat properly. The elephants are painted lovely bright colours (even their toe nails) and wear a harness that is covered by a blanket on which a seat sits. The seat is a box with a latch so you don't fall out. It is a maxium of two people per elephant and apparently they only do so many trips per day--there is an elephant cruelty prevention program in place. It used to be unlimited passengers, but complaints from tourists brought it under control. I'm thrilled to have the experience--a childhood dream since living in Lethbridge and going to the circus. We lumber up the path to the Fort/Palace and Mr Green tells me about his MA in English, how he wants to do an MA in French next year but everything is so expensive. Apparently he pays for school by working as a guide and an escort. I don't ask him if escort in India means the same as in Canada. I don't know if it is the elephant moving or the escort talk but I suddenly feel Mr Greens leg touching mine. I ignore it and keep taking pictures. We arrive at the Amber Palace. First stop is a temple where we remove socks, shoes and any leather item and I must hand over my camera. Then for 10 rupees I get them back after. The temple is very plain with 2 minor paintings and one statue which is of course where you make your offering. Anything is possible in India if you have enough rupees.





Having collected my belongings we set off to explore the palace. There are so many kings to remember and each king had multiple wives...my brain is soon in overload. I make a mental note to buy a guide book at the end--I'll never remember all of this. I snap photos of wall details, door knobs and windows. Mr Green is 1/2 patient with me. We rush and push our way through larger groups and only slow down when I stop for photos. I'm overwhelmed with the information and the people and I find myself answering questinos in my limited French. It is like when I first moved to Pang and couldn't understand Inuktitut my gut reaction --answer in the only other language I know. People then think I speak French which gets more confusing. The fort/palace tour ends and the shopping begins.




I'm not against shopping normally BUT it can be very tiresome in India. Already my mind is blurring a bit on the details and it is only one day later that I write this...so...shopping.

We stop at a jewelery store. Once again I am shown how they cut and polish the gems--everything by hand they say--no machines. Of course you don't actually get to see the 'factory' you sit in the demo room and the host explains what the one person there is doing--it is still interesting to me--staged or not. You are never allowed to take pics in these types of stores...so there are no pics from the sari store and none from this one either.

The first show room is on the main level and I quickly pass through up the elevator to the third floor and the real show room. Sit please. You like beverage? This time I ask for Chai masala. And then on with the show. Then can do any of the stones I see in any setting I want--any size stone. No limit in India. I actually pick out a pair of earrings and a ring. They don't have the colour/size stone I want in the setting I choose and I need a bigger size--No problem madam we have at your hotel, 3-4 hours. Which hotel are you? I pretend I don't know and start moving dow the counter. I just want to look and keep going but they pull out everything I glance at so it is best to walk fast. Finally I have walked the length of the show room but we are far from done. I must now see the traditional style Indian jewelry. And I want to see it, I just don't want the pressure to buy. Would you like to try on? Take a picture? I'm intrigued but decline. Chicken though jumps at the offer.




Jewelry floor done we head to the handicrafts. Wood carvings, marble statues everything you could want. I see a number of prints and after being shown most of them actually select a couple. I see a wooden camel--perfect for mother--but with two more weeks of travel I fear for its life and decide to wait. There will be other camels. So back downstairs finally so I can pay for my order and purchase a few trinkets--cheap enamel gifts that some of you will be getting. I can't remember the cost in Canada and don't want too. They were purchased where they were made and that's enough.

Again they ask for the name of the hotel so they can drop off my ring tonight. I'm not that fresh off the plane--I side stepped teh answer upstairs this time I shrug my shoulders, give a stupid look and then look back at Herr. He steps up to the plate and offers his cell # to arrange a pick up. We fill out the papers, I give him my card and I'm off to lunch.

A bit of explanation here...every store, every restaurant is carefully selected ahead of time. They are tourist traps--most Indians do not shop or eat at these establishments and in fact the restaurant I am left at this day has a sign in the wingodw 'reserve right to refuse' I gather the guard at the door wouldn't pass up foreigners but if a poor working class Joe showed up at the door he might not get in.

We are in a peacock restaurant...the chairs are peacocks, the mapkins are peacocks and they are painted on the walls. I order soup and a potato dish. No rice. No bread. My waiter seems upset and confused. I'm not that hungry and chicken soup (Indian style!) sounds good to me. My TO health issues are still with me am and pm...so soup seems like a good idea. Sweet corn chicken soup...delicious!

After lunch it is off to the city museum. We see some interesting astrological tools and the worlds largest sundial. There are three museums--Art, Textiles and Weapons. I could visit all three but tell the guide I'm not interested in seeing the weapons so we skip that one. I enjoy the art collection but could have spent all day at the textile one. The clothes are magnificent and date back to the 1700's. My guide looks bored as I ponder and drool...but again...no photos allowed.





And then more shopping. AAUUGGHH. I should have just said no and gone back to the hotel but I didn't. I watch and learn how to make a rug. It's interesting, but then I'm ready to go...no such luck. Again the salespitch over tea. This time right off I'm saying I'm not interested--he tries to convince me anyway. I get the feeling that by the time we are finished going through all the room he feels that I wasted his time. Oh well. Back to the hotel for a quick break. We say good bye to the guide, I tip him 100 rupees and he is gone. On route to supper we pass a number of wedding processions. They have these wonderful chandeliers that are electric. 6 or 8 men carry one with the cords over their shoulders at the end of the procession is the generator. The groom arrives on elephant, camel or horse. Herr take me to another wonderful restaurant with more Rajasthani dancers. The man from the jewelry store shows up with my rings and I call it a night. Except that I sprained my finger as I left the restaurant. My ring got caught on the door...not my new ring, my snow goggles ring from NU. Figures.



Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Photos to go with the story from yesterday...

Clay pots


More of the pots


And another pot photo...no wonder I took over 1700 pics. LOL.


Me on the camel.


India through the looking glass


Indian shower. Note bucket.


Outside of the hotel in Jaipur.
Day 1.

After many delays in leaving Frankfurt I finally arrive in Delhi—3 hours late. The tour company I’ve hired for the next few days is there to greet me and I am instantly relieved. During the ½ hour drive to my hotel I wonder what Delhi looks like by day. My driver for the next few days, Herr, speak passable English.

I reluctantly agree to meet him at 11am. I am so tired and my body has no idea what time it is. We wake up the hotel staff and I am shown to my room and eventually I fall asleep. I awake often-new noises, new smells and the ever present sickness that started in TO. At 10am I feel basically rested and ready to start my day. The room is chilly (I kept adding layers of clothes during the night) and I find no hot water to help warm me up. A quick Indian shower (cup in a bucket of water), some warm dry toast and I’m on my way.

My driver is on time and away we go. I have yet to get some rupees so Heer loans me 5000 until I can get to a money exchange. The ride from Delhi to Jaiphur is amazing. I remember now and then to take pictures. I’m so busy watching the sites and asking questions I keep forgetting to use the camera. Every few feet is another road side restaurant—a building of some description with plastic lawn chairs and make shift tables. There always seems to be a bathing area – picture a cement wall 4 feet high and maybe 8X8. You don’t get in the water, you undress, stand beside the ‘pool’ and pour the water over you.[Yep, naked men ;)] I assume that like in Canada the number of vehicles in the parking lot is in direct correlation to the taste of the food. Herr won’t let me eat at any of these places “too hot (spicy) for you.” I don’t argue—there will be lots of time in Pondi for food experimentation. I am allowed to eat lunch at a resort ½ way to Jaiphur. I am the only person there…not a great sign, but here I am six hours later and still standing. I had mutton curry with rice. Herr and I drive on to Jaiphur and I mention that I would not want to drive in India. It doesn’t matter where you drive, how fast or any of the other ‘rules’ of the road that I am used to. He laughs and tells me there are only 3 things you need to drive in India: 1) a good horn, 2) good brakes, 3) good luck! Now I’m the one laughing.

Today is really meant just for driving (it will take about 6 hours to cover 250ish km), the tour guide will meet us in the am. We stop to see a shop where they make clay pots, Herr gives him 20 rupees for showing us around and we are on our way. I get to see the outside of the Forst that I will tour tomorrow, I snap a few shots and off we go. A few minutes later, a quick negotiation from Herr and I am sitting on the back of a camel. I have no idea how many rupees it cost, but I mentally add it to Herrs tip. The camel and the fellow leading it are retired racers. A quick photo op of me on the camel and we saunter down the road. It is very much like being on a horse, stirrups and all.

At this point I’ve barely broken the 12 hour mark for time in India—but the long awaited moment is here and I am sari shopping. Girls, if you want to be treated like royalty, go sari shopping in India.

Shopping in India is a big scam which I will explain later…allow me to enjoy this shopping experience before I jade you. First a demo on how they do block printing on material. The demo is made to have you understand the quality and time that goes into the work—and dazzle you a bit. Then I am shown how they cut and polish gemstones. And we haven’t even gone inside yet.

The first room I’m shown is full of blankets and quilts. Perfect for Canadian winters I’m told. I smile. I allow the demo of how small they pack and finally we move on. Upstairs is the sari room. Boxes and boxes of material stacked floor to ceiling with a low bench on each side of the room. I am asked to sit please and am offered a beverage. I say no. Which wasn’t the right answer. The show begins.

My host/salesman explains what a sari is—6 meters of fabric draped beautifully on a womans body and can be worn in many, many, many different ways with or without a blouse. The saris they show me have extra fabric at the end with which you can make a blouse. They start with showing me the cheaper fabrics and lay them out in front of me. I am to look, feel and then ask to either see more colour or go to the next price point. We start at 700 rupees and head to 22,500. (1000 rupees = $25 Canadian)

At this point Herr suggests a beverage—my earlier mistake is forgiven as I order a bottle of coke. The drinks are free—but you pay for them in the end. Now that we are all sipping beverages we can get down to business. I discard the amazing 22,500 sari and look at a few on the higher end…[yes, I know I live in Nunavut and will I ever really get to wear a sari???] but…I’m in India sari shopping and I want a nice one. I have the host, 2 helpers and my driver at hand helping in the process. The helpers pull saris off shelves and out of boxes laying them at my feet. I ponder and my host suggests I try one on. I stand and the helper drapes me in silk. I’m in love. I’m no petite India woman, but I instantly feel very feminine. He drapes it in different ways and the host gives suggestions on other things to do with a sari—make pants, curtains, bedspread, etc. Who’s he kidding, I’m already shoe shopping in my head. Now that I am dressed like a princess it is down to business. I settle on three. One that will be showcased at the Gala in May, one for whenever—you know an everyday sari and a gift for Al.

Herr ensures they can make an underskirt for me—they come in a standard size but I’m not standard. I’m just worried that there won’t be enough material at the end of the sari to make the kurti (blouse). They measure and talk and ensure me…it will all be very good madam.

The India women dress in such rich vibrant colours, mixing and matching yellow, orange, blue, purples, greens..ah. They certainly stand out in a crowd. I’m envious of their colour selections as I am not able to make such bold colour choices. [I could…but I’m not really a colour person] Sari purchase over I am brought into the next display room—jewelery. Everything you could want and more—don’t have what you like, they can custom make something.

With my new sari in mind I check out some sapphires but don’t see two alike in the darker blue and decline. They try VERY hard to convince me to take something. I stay firm with my no. I assume we are on our way out then…NOPE. The net room is material for making what I was told is a Punjabi dress. The long shirt, pants and scarf. [I have been told other names since, but for me it will always be the Punjabi dress.] The material comes in sets one piece for the shirt, one for the pants and the scarf. The pants cone in wide leg or narrow. It is the kind of thing I think I will wear at the build site and throw caution to the wind and get measured for one. The host tries to get me to buy more fabric or order more—cheap he says—but I’m tired, getting cranky and want sleep so I say no. And then on to the mens wear room, wearily I say no, no men to shop for and head for the stairs. And then hit upon the scarf and Pashmina room. AAUUGGHH. I just want to scream. I plead exhaustion and jet lag both of which are true and he concedes only when I finally say…tomorrow, when I come to pick up I look around more. Herr pushes the point and we are off to the FINAL showroom where there are handicrafts. A firm, very firm NO from me and the bill is written up—it is more than I had thought I’d pay for saris, but I am getting 3 items made to fit me which will be ready by tomorrow if madam is ok with that and I’m too tired to do the conversion properly so I pay. What the real plan is that Herr will stop by on his own while I am at the Fort and pick up the stuff for me.

Supper was at a tourist stop, the food was good and they had some mildly entertaining Rajasthani dancers—a few guys playing drums and two girls swirl and twirl almost like belly dancers. Finally we arrive at the hotel. I have high hopes from the pics I saw on the internet. The outside is very similar my room is not. It’s fine, but it’s tiny and damp and the washroom is as big as the bedroom—but there is hot water so I’m a happy camper. Chicken and I settle in for the night and we both fall asleep quickly. I’d like to say I slept through…but my TO issues continue to plague me. At least it is confined to early am and late at night so as not to spoil my days.

Sunday, March 02, 2008

I left Iqaluit on a Friday. Spent Saturday shopping for work. Flew to Toronto on Sunday and then prepared to leave for India on the Monday.

Here's the first entry from my India Diary.

Because I am not afraid

Why are you?

These statements are on the dog tags that I had made before I moved to NU. When someone asked me why I was moving North I showed them the tags. I think they got me thru today. I slept like I normally do. Which isn't saying much cause I've never been a good sleeper. I had my day planned out - the anticipation to lift off - and then the plan crumbled. Halfway thru my 'Canadian breakfast' I felt ill. Nauseous, feverish, bloated -- generally not well. Back in my room I struggled to pull myself together and get out the door. The stops I had scheduled for the morning were torture. How could I be sick? I can't be sick now. To be like this on the plane for 28 hours --oh please no. I popped a zantac. Nothing. 2 rolaids. Nothing. Pepto bismal. Nothing. It was after the rolaids and just before the pepto that I saw a store selling dog tags and remembered the words I had engraved. It dawned on me that the cause of my illness was nerves. As anyone who knows me can attest to--I am a good traveller. I can pack and fly with the best of them. So why was I nervous about this trip? A book. A stupid book I had been reading and comments that I have gathered from well-wishers over the past six months, comments that were twisting my stomach into knots. "What if I'm not moved by my trip to India? What if I come back the same person - but with a tan? What if the extreme poverty the compassion of my habitat team and the suppossed spirituality that is India has no effect on my spirit?" And that was it. I identified the issue and started my mantra "Because I am not afraid...I wasn't afraid of going, I was afraid of coming back and I hadn't even boarded the plane.

It's 3:30pm. I've had a bran muffin and a chai latte from Star Bucks. My tummy is greatly improved and I've managed to talk myself out of my worries. Ok everybody take a deep breath and RELAX. I wasn't going to back out or hide under the bed--I'm just sharing my raw emotions with you. I'm not ready for unit 9 yet--or at least no more than I ever have been. I just need to stop reading this book. I need to stop letting the book take over my thoughts. I need sleep.

The time is getting close. I won't feel like I am actually going until I am in the air. Then it will be official. Chicken is here with me, my faithful travel companion -- and taking no chances he is in my carry on. You'd wonder if I'm not 7.

***
First leg is over. I'm in Frankfurt. At MacDonalds. Yes, I am embarassed to write that. But it is 7:43am and its smoke free and quiet so I can relax. I am watching dawn break over the runways. My stomach is still queasy, but that could be lack of sleep, lack of food or the anti-malaria pills. I am soon off in search of somewhere to sleep for a few hours. This time tomorrow I will be sleeping in a cheap tourist hotel in New Delhi.

My plan was to zip into Frankfurt proper and look around...change of plan. While it is do able it will need to wait for the retun trip when I have less carry on baggage and a stronger stomach...I don't mind burning the midnight oil at the end of the trip - but I need to save my energy for my elephant ride!

Ok, I finished the book. It wasn't so hot. I liked the Italy section, but then it went downhill--too much about feelings and spirituality. UGH. You know the movie "The Wedding Date" he says to "Grace" 'Women have exactly the kind of love life they want.' Or maybe it juust says life. Either way that may be true. I just can't explain how at the moment.

***

After a lengthy delay at the airport in Frankfurt due to a change of aircraft and then a fuel leak in the second plane --the one I am currently sitting in--we are airborn and should be arriving in Delhi in about 6 more hours. The plane is packed and the seats are even closer together than on the last one. I gave up my window seat and in exchange will be able to stretch my legs more. I just hope the tour guide will still meet me at the airport at around 3am. My stomach is still giving me grief but it is much better than yesterday.

***

And that is the end of this entry. I didn't alter it or change it at all from what I had written. Over the next few days I'll continue to post what I had written during my trip. I will continue to write it exactly as written...so if it doesn't always make sense...well...you know.